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Twincam starter motor - working or not
Posted: 23 Dec 2009, 06:04
by archangel62
Hey everyone,
Well as I know have two G180W's, and three Geminis, it seems I need at least two DOHC starter motors. I have one.
I'm prepared to have a non-working one rebuilt, as I'm sure that the one fitted to the "turbo project" G180W will be a total pain to get to, let alone the NA engine, and I won't want to replace them.
So let me know what you have - condition, last used, and a price. I live in Adelaide but I'm sure postage can be arranged.
Eli
Re: Twincam starter motor - working or not
Posted: 24 Dec 2009, 20:47
by cul8r
If you get stuck I know of another g200w sitting outside, which I could probably suss the starter from, but from NZ would be an absolute last resort huh?
Re: Twincam starter motor - working or not
Posted: 18 Feb 2010, 20:09
by archangel62
Haha, it's possible! If I don't find one in a month or two I'll be in touch. I'm not really in a hurry, but I wouldn't want to hold out for ages then lose contact with you - be a bit pointless! How much you chasing?
What's the deal with the motor anyway? Will it ever run again? I'd hate to separate parts that might one day prevent an engine from running. That's what happened to mine!
Cheers,
Eli
Re: Twincam starter motor - working or not
Posted: 18 Feb 2010, 20:21
by cul8r
Its just sitting outside thats all, has been for a few years..
I was just talking tonight with a guy thats got a near complete g200w piazza (manual), was telling me one of his employees back in the day turbo'd one..
So now I know of 3 spare motors (my spare g180w) and the two g200w's..
Still no dizzy though!
Got a dizzy?
Re: Twincam starter motor - working or not
Posted: 20 Feb 2010, 02:20
by IZU069
Angel - I presume you suffer the non-diesel x-member Gemini issue - you cant fit a Gemini RHS "in line" reduction starter, nor the normal later reduction starters (LHS or RHS)?
CuL8r - I suppose you want the ITEC optical dizzy - ie, the 4ZE1 (Jackaroo) style but for the G200W Piazza?
I just happen to have one of those... But I think I pulled apart its module (the poxy coating etc) but it should still work. Otherwise I have Jackaroo modules that will fit....
And will I ever need it....? Not for the right price I won't....
If you only want a mechanical or locked non-CAS dizzy (eg - Microtech, Megasquirt, Delco 808, etc), then all you need is a Gemini dizzy (G-Z series); a hacksaw to cut the shaft 10mm below the collar; a grinder & punch or similar to remove the collar, and replace it with a DOHC dizzy drive gear using a 4mm pin; and preferably some 0.15mm shim for a better shaft fit (the G-W 12.4mm ID gear onto the 12mm G-Z dizzy shaft).
Plus the RB Gemini guts into Gemini G-Z dizzy conversion.
If using the RB's ignitor, then it's 2 holes and a new cable exit slot; otherwise no mods to the G-Z dizzy body - just extend the reluctor pickup cable(s) to wherever.
FYI - I highly recommend the RB reluctor conversion over Gemini etc points, and for most (non-CAS) EFIs etc.
They are standard and common parts (Nissan(?) etc).
And with the RB's "blue" ignition coil, probably one of the best sparks around (from ~5V upwards), and the ignitor will run a Bosch MEC-717 coil etc (~0.4 Ohm primary versus ~1.2 Ohm for the blue coils). (NO ballast required!!)
[ FYI: And if anyone says the reluctors are less accurate "because they are AC" etc, tell them you aren't that stupid - you know that Hall & Optic sensors (internal to the Hall & Optic chopper modules) are analog and their trip-point varies with temperature and possibly aperature refractions etc. (However.... the reluctor sensor has a well defined zero-crossing that is always at the same sensor-rotor position irrespective of temp and non-sharp rotor edges...). ]
Re: Twincam starter motor - working or not
Posted: 21 Feb 2010, 15:06
by cul8r
Yea mate, after the ITEC dizzy , going to be using the original ecu etc as I've both looms & ecu for g180w (zz/t) and g200w (piazza)
What do you want for it, complete would be better, I dont mind assembling if its straight forward..
Cheers,Chris
Re: Twincam starter motor - working or not
Posted: 24 Feb 2010, 22:52
by IZU069
Yet again it's a case of I'm not after anything for it.
But some offers get me interested in lightening my stock....
Re: Twincam starter motor - working or not
Posted: 25 Feb 2010, 20:02
by cul8r
$50 + postage?
Re: Twincam starter motor - working or not
Posted: 01 Mar 2010, 00:30
by archangel62
Speaking of prices, how much would you like for one of the DOHC starters cul8r? And is there any chance you could ask a local post office how much to send an object the size of a tissue box, weighing about 6-7kg? A SOHC starter weighs dead on 5, apparently DOHCs are a tad more.
Re: Twincam starter motor - working or not
Posted: 01 Mar 2010, 17:47
by cul8r
I'd have to find out what each person wants for the starters, but yea can do. Where abouts in australia?
Re: Twincam starter motor - working or not
Posted: 02 Mar 2010, 21:01
by IZU069
Sorry cul8r, my previous post evaporated.... (I have had FurryFox 3.6 problems on other forums too - it's not the old censorship. I hope!)
I summary, no - you get more for RB dizzies.
And many have paid $300+ for Gemini etc "CAS" conversions (LOL - most aren't even CASs - just straight dizzies like N13, Camira, Honda, etc!!!).
The I-TEC DOHC (Piazza) and 4ZE1 optical dizzies can be easily modified from 360x4 to 1x4 or 12x1 etc etc.
It might be worth considering a Delco EFI instead.
Re: Twincam starter motor - working or not
Posted: 27 Mar 2010, 04:53
by archangel62
Adelaide 5087, cheers