Isuzu G-series Twin Cam

Hey guys i have a gemini coupe with a G161 motor with piazza fuel injection and turbo.
Looking for a bit more poke and was wondering if you thought that the G200w was the way to go?
Have been offered a G200w with no manifolds for a good price so if i buy it was also wondering if anyone is selling fuel injection.

Please add your coments as im new to G200w's and any feed back would be good
Thanks.

As someone who has been screwed by this, be VERY wary of what you're going to need. Here's a list, tick off every one, if not factor the costs and time and effort..

-What is the internal condition like? Rings, head gasket, bearings etc?
-Does it have a sump with a decent gasket?
-Does it have a head, and an exhaust head
-Does it have a rocker cover
-Does it have an inlet (the 4-4 bit coming off the head to the plenum)
-Does it have injectors
-Does it have injector leads
-Does it have a plenum (big bit between throttle body and inlet)
-Does it have a throttle body
-Does it have an air intake
-Does it have sensors: MAP/AFM, CTS, IAT, TPS
-Does it have a complete original dizzy?
-Does it have a gearbox that fits?
-Does it have a starter motor?
-Does it have a sandwich plate that fits, and a flywheel, and clutch?
-Does it have pulleys, a fan and a fan belt?
-Does it have coolant and vaccuum hoses to fit the Gemini radiator etc?
-Does it have an ECU (engine computer)???
-Does it have a loom/is it wired up
-Will the output shaft of the gearbox suit your tailshaft (narrow/coarse)
-Is the ECU tuned for it, was it recently running, and running properly?
-Does it come with a fuel rail and fuel pressure regulator?
-Does it come with a high pressure EFI fuel pump?
-Will the engine mounts fit? (they should)
-Check where the oil filter is located, this can affect the ease of fitting, it's on the site somewhere

All of these things should be DOUBLE checked before you buy it, you might think "oh well the head and lower end's there" but don't get sucked in to it, if you don't have EVERYTHING you can add large amounts of time for the screwing around for every stupid little thing, especially if you're unfamiliar with the engines and don't know what they need or how they fit together.

Be sure to get the honest truth out of the bloke selling it as to it's condition. I chose to rebuild mine because the previous owner had boosted it, and then left it sitting around. As it turned out the head gasket was immaculate, but the rings were going and the bearings were looking a bit old. And remember to put oil in her before you start hahah...

Now that I've scared you, don't worry, if you get a complete and running engine, it might not be too hard, hey you might even be able to drop it in and get it going in a weekend. I just wanted to make sure you don't buy 50% of an engine, in crappy condition, without the know-how or funds to fix it, and end up in my situation, still screwing around with a non-running engine a year and a half later

They're good engines though, they leave the SOHCs for dead in all fields - power, torque, reliability, sound, and potential. Although they are a little rarer of course, so you have to do a bit more reading when you have to fiddle around with them, but nothings impossible and parts can be sourced.

dont worry about efi you can get a manifold made easily because there isn't any water on the inlet side ive got pics then chuck some twin carbies on it and she's done unless your going turbo.

Im pretty sure i have a spare injection manifold with throttle body/injectors and fuel rail that i would sell

Hey guys,
Thanks for information please keep it coming.
Deffinently going turbo.
Please let me know if you do come up with your fuel injection manifold Bradlze.
Cheers guys.

If you're going to do a proper turbo setup, and want it to last, think seriously about compression. Stock is 8.9:1 and you won't be able to run much boost without dropping it - but the higher compression will help combat lag. Also be very wary boosting an engine with unknown internals... If I were you I'd find the right parts for a rebuild and just keep them handy, make sure nothing rusts by oiling them of course.

I dunno how the stock computer would take to boost, if the stock AFM could deal with the heat of a turbo output etc, let alone if the tune would be right. But turbo twincam sounds cool, that's my plan too. I havn't done anything with the compression yet, but then again turbo's a while off too, hell it's not even running.

If your turbo needs an oil feed, be very wary of stealing it from the stock oil pump, as it is they have a habit of starving the exhaust cam bearings of oil. Cam bearings are the issue for us at the moment, although there have been whispers of some going around.

im still on the hunt for cam bearings.
I also read an interesting article in zoom magazine about compression and turboing. they were talking about unless your interested in dyno comp's and big top end number's people should be running more compression in there turbo motor's.

That's interesting, what sorta compression were they talking about?

Mitsubishi Colt Evo's (turbo with fmic) run 8.9:1 or 9:1 or something, I'd say this would greatly improve midrange and throttle response, but you'd want either an ECU with a knock sensor, or a damn good dyno tune utilising one.

Lots of people have told me I'd have to go below 8.5:1, and aim for around 8 maybe 8.2 if I wanted to run much boost, someone told me I'd only make 120-140rwkw absolute maximum before risking mass pinging and destruction... but I'd be damn interested to get it on a dyno with a good turbo and fmic and see how much boost it could take before pinging...

Any thoughts from people with more mechanical knowledge and experience than me? lol

your right they said you need good knock sensors and good tuning they were talking about standard ls1 commo's with 9:1 comp and big boost but you need to run good fuel all the time. engine builders normally build customer engine's on the safe side i know id hate to put a tank off shit fuel in and blow a new motor. ill dig the article up tonight.

nizpro did testing on a ls2 with standard internals 10.9:1 compression with 20psi boost and pump fuel. it ran a 10sec pass.

yea but these are all newer engines......they have the engineering and metalurgy to combat stresses (yes i know the ls1 is pushrod)

personally, i have been thinkin the same thing as martin donnon about comp ratios, i guess his thoughts comfirmed my own

too many ppl say "1600 head on 2litre is gonna boost comp too much for turbo" what a load of crap, it's bad tuning/too much boost that will kill the donk b4 comp ratio gets it

but i guess on a old gemini bottom end lower comp is a buffer for those lead foots..

cheers