The
guy sounds like a bit of a loser.... It's one thing to use a stock pump for an EFI, but to swap a G200W for an sr20det?
You know of the G200W's approx 300Nm@2k & 400Nm@4kRPM with NO CHANGE except exhaust and maybe fuel (ie, I used twin Weber DCOE45s - but EFI was not an option for me back then)? That was on a 117 G200W with points dizzy.
The next stage involved a slight port job & a $300 cam grind for ~220-230HP@6kRPM, but since standard pistons reliably tolerate only 180HP I needed forged pistons - and I don't spend that sort of money (~$1,200).
But since DOUBLE the torque at HALF the RPM effectively DOUBLES vehicle acceleration, I was quite pleased for a $200 exhaust and $450 Webers & $270 inlet manifolds. (EFI would have been >$2k. Now it's only ~$200 for a Delco.)
Peak torque being at 3k meant not only amazing acceleration (usually in 5th gear after starting in 1st to maybe 4k RPM), but best fuel economy at 3k (100-110k in 5th).
(And now that I have powerful ignition - namely that of the RB Gemini in a T-Gemini (RWD) dizzy with a simple shaft chop and DOHC gear (all relatively easy DIY - also used for EFI like Delco).
Then there is that 390HP turbo build... maybe one day I'll get its details. (Knowing the builder, I'm sure it's and economical and reliable build. BTW - the 230HP "hi-torque" G200W supposedly has the same reliability as the standard G200W, and they are very reliable - find a standard G-W that isn't...)
Let's hope your G200W is standard. Else at worst, a "standard" rebuild.
The number I read about that throw bearings, have high compression pistons, or other-car's cams; have been built for high RPM power (4:1 extractors etc).....
The only problem a Gem has with the G200W is it can't use the standard exhaust manifold (unless you have the diesel cross-member AFAIK). And it is hard beating the standard manifold - it takes a real good designer!
Sorry - did I get carried away? Again?
Back to yours....
You are connecting the dizzy to the Wolf to drive the coil? (IE - something must provide the ignition advance curves.)
Do you have the Wolf info (model & wiring)?
If you just want spark without ECU, then simplest is a chopped RWD Gemini dizzy. Cut the shaft 10mm below the shaft's collar; remove the 4mm collar pin (grind & punch thru) & replace collar with the G-W dizzy's drive gear AND a 36mm(?) length of 0.15mm shim (eg, brass) between the 12.00mmOD shaft and 12.40mmID G-W gear. Lock in place with a 4mm expanding pin.
I should check & confirm the shim dimension (just one wrap), and which gear orientation (13 teeth I think, hence a possible 360/13/2 = 28/2° = 14°
rotor phasing difference from standard).
That can (later) be converted to the
RG dizzy - as per elsewhere or as done by a few for a fee - substitute the early-model RB Gemini upper dizzy shaft & breaker plate with reluctor pickup for EFI or external ignitors (easy), or add the RB ignitor (inside the dizzy) - that required 2 holes in the right place, and a new groove for the cable exit.
I highly recommend the RB system including ignitor and ignition coil. It starts my cold car at a battery voltage of 5.2V, and the ignitor is almost indestructible - I have run Bosch MEC-717 etc coils (~4 times the primary current of the standard "blue" ignition coils - not that the ignitor's current limiting allows that!).
Note that the later RBs have an incompatible "upper shaft" for the dizzy - their RPM-advance spring-weight throwout mechanism is different.
But other than that later change, the RB dizzy is as good as it gets.
The reluctor is a proven, robust, & accurate technology. (The "great" JE Camira used reluctor after the JD's Siemens Hall-Effect system despite being preferred by many (for the wrong reasons!).)
The reluctor is a single-pole design - not the 2- or 4-pole design of old (ie, not 4-pronged shaft inner lobes with surrounding 2- or 4-pronged
donut ring. Nor will it demagnitise easily - hence ordinary feeler gauges are (IMO) acceptable - not the same need for brass feeler gauges.
The pickup is the common and proven potted design; simply mounted and gapped like points with 2 screws. It is not a weaker larger coil that surrounds the dizzy shaft (as with Camira, N13, etc).
The breaker plate is a common flat-round bearing type as used in RWD Geminis and other ND dizzies. They don't wear or break or stick anything like the older "plate" type breaker plates with 2 plates, a spring plate, 3 ball-bearings etc. And if they do, they can easily be cleaned and lubed. (Even dismantled!)
Overhaul & clean the RB system in a handful of minutes. (No flying circlips or bearings or plates...)
BTW - forget GT40 etc coils - certainly the can types. E-cores etc are the way to go.
But little beats the RB "blue" coil. If it has enough spark to start a cold car at 5.2V, at 10.4V it could have 4x the energy, and 7x the energy at 13.7V. (Since current limiting applies, it may only be 2x & 2.6 times the 5.2V spark energy.)
Put it this way, I didn't bother finishing my "finally cheap" (sequential) CDI ignition - CDI being generally considered the best commonly available ignition system.
But I think
any old E-core ignition coil beats the GT coils.
(The ballast is irrelevant with the RB ignitor - it current limits so no ballast is required. Though the ignitor may therefore get hotter...)
You have checked your components?
A coil merely has 3 connections: +12V to "+", the HT to an earthed splug or (say) 5mm airgap to earth or an earthed cat, and an interruptible earth connection to "-".
With "-" earthed, current flows thru the coil + to -. (For short term testing or use, a ballast is not required. Only when the coil gets hot is the ballast required - that may take several to tens of minutes.)
It is when you break that current flow that the coil kicks (sparks, bites, lights up balls [whether eye-socket balls or the ones men scratch at traffic lights - and maybe some females] etc).
So no spark - either no current to interrupt, or there is no break. IE - faulty fuse or power or non-earthed points or ignitor etc, or faulty switch (shorted points); or faulty coil or connections.
Connect coil + to battery +12V; coil - to battery - (aka 0V - chassis, earth, ground, body, frame), and whilst sitting or leaning on the car (metal), your partner can hold the metal tip at the end of the coil's HT lead.
Break either the +12V or 0V to the coil and note any reaction or changes.
If the coil is faulty, your relationship should remain intact.
Should the coil and its connections and battery be ok, you may require a new partner - but hey - you now have a working IgCoil! [FYI, I used to preserve partners so I'd use her cat instead. But then came the bluddy RSPCA...]
But NEVER test this with a spouse - or
legal spouse - 50% (or less) of a IgCoil is useless even if it did work.
Sorry - did I get carried away? Again?
Maybe I feel I have to make up for the (or my?) unacceptable quietness on this site.
And this thread should be broken down later.... bits extracted into other
How Tos
After I/we have the Wolf info and the solution, maybe we can extract a "master reference"... under
EFI Systems?
Hmmm - the Sun is not up yet. Good - enough time to check email....
